New Blue Mountains Climbing Guide Book
10 Dec 2015
The long-awaited 2015 edition of the Blue Mountains Climbing Guide has arrived!
As always, the new edition is packed with glossy photos and photo-topos, colour-coded crag guides and more new routes than you can poke a nut tool at. It also has two handy indexes at the back, where you can find routes grouped alphabetically and by grade.
Of special interest to sport climbers heading outdoors for the first time, you can now add The Soft Parade to your sport climbing map, along with old classics like Dam Cliffs, Bardens Lookout, Shipley Upper and Medlow Bath. The Soft Parade is a super approachable crag for beginners, with an amazing 42 sport routes at Grade 18 and below. A great addition to the Blue Mountains climbing scene!
The new guidebook clocks in at nearly 400 pages, so to help new sport climbers find their way to some of the great sub-Grade 18 single pitch routes scattered across the Blue Mountains, we’ve put together a list of some of our favourite Sport Routes under 18, all in the new guide book.
1. Fabslab (8) The Nest, p. 101
This route, though easy, will be a great adventure for new climbers. This recently developed crag is a real sun-trap, so it’s the place to be on a cool winter’s day. Bring your bolt plates!
2. Trinity (13) Shipley Upper, p. 131
This run-out classic at the far right of one of the most iconic walls in the Blue Mountains is a must do.
3. Mañana (14) Medlow Bath, p. 106
Hauling up this juggy golden face is guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
4. The Arrow and the Song (15) Bardens Lookout, p. 265
This pleasant, rambling route is a lovely introduction to the inspiring vertical main cliff at Bardens Lookout. A bit like an outdoor gym, Bardens is a great place to cut your sport climbing teeth. Just be aware, at 26m this route can be a bit of a rope stretcher – make sure you tie a knot in the end of your rope so you don’t lower your partner off the end.
5. Mezzaluna (16) Mt York, p. 259
Great position, great moves and great times on this beautiful and popular route.
6. The Sisters of Fatima (16) Dam Cliffs, p. 340
This short, fun route follows a spectacular series of water-worn scoops up a delightful wall in the sheltered Dam Cliffs area.
7. Sweet Seduction in a Magazine (16) Mt Boyce, p. 178
This 45m route has a bit of everything – technical thin climbing, fun jug-hauling and a roof at the top. Although it is a sport route, the access and exit are a bit adventurous so take a good look at the guide and make sure you’ve got the skills you need.
8. Burning Jowls (17) Shipley Upper, p. 131
An exciting introduction to Shipley’s trademark thin face climbing.
9. Cardinal Fang (17) Medlow Bath, p. 106
This route on The Block is just one of many fine pitches from grade 15-18 at this friendly, easy-access crag. You’ll need bolt plates for most of these routes.
10. Dress Rehearsal Rag Pitch 1 (17) Zig Zag, p. 233
A test-piece at the grade, if you can climb this without too much fear and desperation you’re truly ready to step it up.
Drop us a line and let us know your favourites!
Thanks to the team at Onsight Photography and Publishing and all the contributors to this great new edition.